The Great Sojourn — theNOSTOMANIAC.com

123 - Chukkung Valley (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

Back at the guesthouse, the sunroom was overrun by mature Irish tourists who looked as if someone had just mowed them down with a submachine gun. They were shattered. All appeared to be passed out. First time in the Himalayas? The day before, it was a Japanese entourage enjoying the valley views from the sun room’s relative comfort. When they departed, I noticed a man being carried on the back of the Japanese liaison/guide they'd brought from Japan. Yes, stereotypes are offensive, but for the love of everything holy! That’s so “Japanese tourist” trope, it’s almost beyond belief. Almost.

What dreams may come? Mine were bonkerballs bananas…

Nepal, Batch 21by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 20, 2020Nepal, Khumbu Region, Everest Trail, Chukkhung, Chukhung

124 - Kongma La (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

I can’t deny it. Going it alone made me nervous. It also adrenalized the shit out of me. Would I get lost? Be eaten by a yeti? Hit by a meteorite? Those were the obvious risks, but my trepidation centered on the mundane—altitude sickness, broken ankle, cuts, scrapes, tooth decay, painful gas, etc. In tandem with a fellow adventurer, the risk was mitigated, but alone, a minor obstacle could turn deadly, especially if I were the only person to cross that day. It’s wise to bring a buddy. Really. I had no buddy. Me, myself, and I. Would I prefer a compadre and/or guide? You bet your ass. But we work with what we have…

Batch 21, Nepalby Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 19, 2020Kongma La, Nepal, Three Passes Trek

125 - Everest Base Camp (Three Passes Trek, Nepal )

My expectations concerning EBC weren’t grandiose. I'd heard mixed reviews. The Lonely Planet recommended doing Kala Pattar or EBC, warning both might be too much for most. I considered skipping base camp in favor of a longer stay on Kala Pattar and the immediate area. I sensed a tourist trap in EBC, a trip undertaken only to obtain the signature rubber stamp of “been there, done that” feel good emotion about standing at the gateway to the highest mountain on earth. Many people do it for the sake of doing it, but, as I learned over and over, don’t believe everything you read and “many people” are often idiots…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 18, 2020Everest Trail, Everest Base Camp, Nepal, Khumbu Ice Fall

126 - Kala Pattar to Dzongla (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

You can’t actually see Mt. Everest from Everest Base Camp. Kala Pattar is the designated viewpoint, though it’s not ideal either. Anybody who’s somebody goes there for their panoramic fix. I’m somebody, right? Yes, yes, I am.

See the sunrise. See that fucking sunrise, ya heard? Everywhere you go, the sunrise is king. See it or else. It's cloudy? You're sick? Nuclear winter? Doesn't matter. Don’t be an asshole. Behold the sunrise. Notwithstanding brilliant matutinal reflections…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 17, 2020Kala Pattar, Dzongla, Three Passes Trek, Nepal, Khumbu Region

127 - Cho La - Dzongla to Gokyo (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

The beginning wasn’t so auspicious for Double Rich. The snow led to deviations, but the valley narrows as you progress, forcing even the most moronic of morons in the right direction. It was swell to have a partner in ineptitude for a change. Other Rich did enough worrying for both of us. The weather was beautiful, the scenery epic. I relaxed somewhat, knowing if the shit hit the fan, at least we had each other.

Other Rich was super friendly and personable. He was also about as exciting as a dry donut. I believe exhaustion and dehydration…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 16, 2020Cho La, Dzongla, Gokyo, Nepal, Three Passes Trek

128 - Gokyo to Lukla (Three Passes Trek, Nepal)

After breakfast, Gokyo Ri was the order of the day. The challenge was more than I’d anticipated for two reasons: 1) the aforementioned snow; and 2) the intensity of solar radiation. The snow and ice were no picnic, but nothing compared to the heat. The days’ haze and thin cloud cover intensified the ultraviolet energy. Slow, steady movements mitigated overheating potential. Pants were a mistake. I wouldn’t have been uncomfortable in a speedo (only ashamed). Such a maneuver would’ve required gobs and gobs of sun cream. The temp on the mountain might well have topped 60℉ (15℃)…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 14, 2020Nepal, Three Passes Trek, Thame, Apa Sherpa, Khumbu Region

129 - The Last Resort and Flashbacks (Nepal, Uganda, DR Congo)

And we (as in two rangers carrying AKs and a guide) were off. No one spoke English, only a tribal dialect and French. I was told the weapons were in case we encountered elephants. Uh-huh. I’m sure it had nothing to do with the other species of guerrilla. After two hours of hiking through the jungle, we found our target, a gorilla gang presided over by a single silverback.

Two words: F***ing. Amazing. Just me, the guide, and gentle giants. This group was habituated, so they paid us little mind…

Nepal, Batch 22by Mr. Nos T. O'maniacJanuary 13, 2020Uganda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Nepal, Mountain Gorillas, The Last Resort